Monday, May 28, 2007

Summer floating


This may not look like a tan to you...but it's amazing how one's sense of perspective changes!

It's hard to believe that summer is really here...I mean it's certainly long overdue, but it's with a certain sense of disbelief that we march forth in making summer plans! This long weekend (Memorial Day) Dan and I made plans to head out and canoe the upper section of the local Chena River. The weather was perfect with a breeze strong enough to keep the pesky mosquitoes at bay, and the river was mellow and tranquil...for the most part. There were plenty of log piles in the river, and enough sweepers to keep us thinking. It was a little difficult for me to get used to being two in a boat with a paddle on just one side: I felt a little off-balance with just half a paddle! I realise that most canoers go on "float" trips rather than paddle trips, but the thought of just floating down a river for hours on end didn't appeal to either of us.


Note the absence of a keg

In addition to plenty of other boaters and fisherpeople we saw a gorgeous bald eagle, beaver dams, and a moose leg (sans moose!!). It really is a local hotspot for recreation, and in particular for boaters. Dan and I opted out of the keg in the middle of the boat, and were some of only a few who did!

With summer being much awaited, we are looking forward to getting out and about. I will be working at a summer camp for the month of June before becoming a lady of leisure for July - cycle race, running events, music festival in Canada etc...and perhaps some cabin painting. Dan will be working until a conference and climbing trip calls him to northern Italia in July and then before you know it summer will be winding down. We hope for another trip to southcentral Alaska before August hits, and the school year begins.

The long nights add a certain sense of buoyancy and exhaustion all at once...I find myself once again in awe of the people who live this rather unbalanced lifestyle year in and year out. Rather like paddling with just half a paddle...

A wee excursion in rural Alaska


View of the Aleutian Chain from my prop plane!

In early May I was fortunate enough to receive a scholarship to visit St. Paul Island: population: 500; location: middle of the Bering Sea. My mission was to visit a school in rural Alaska to observe and to teach, in addition to understanding a little more about life off the road system.


St. Paul Island: "Downtown"

I quickly became known as "New Lady" and was asked who I was visiting and why I was on the island each time I met someone new. This had me in giggles numerous times, and the locals too. The island is reknown for its amazing wildlife, and in particular the huge population of fur seals that inhabit the island throughout summer. This drew many people here in the late 1800s for seal clubbings by the tens of thousands for fancy fur coats in the USA and Russia. There are thousands of beautiful birds on the island in summer too, nesting on the high sea cliffs. Unfortunately I didn't get to see any seals or puffins (my big goal!) but it wasn't for lack of trying - I went for many walks and did manage to see lots of foxes. They were very cute! It was delightful to be near the sea again, even though there was a lot a sea ice on board...


Nesting murres, auklets and red-faced cormorants amidst the icicles!

My experience at the school was really interesting. I loved being in a school from primary school to secondary school - it was so delightful to see the students bonding together. Class sizes are small, as there were only 100 students in the school. Teachers in rural Alaska are highly sought after as turnover is high; of the 10 teachers at that school, three were leaving this year. The Pribilof Islands (of which St. Paul is one) have the world's highest population of Aleut people, and this was certainly evident within the school. The vast majority of teachers in rural Alaska are white, and not Alaska Native. There is an ongoing struggle in education, in which there is a sense of fracture from students' day-to-day life and their time in school. Alcoholism is also prevalent within these communities and the more I read about the history of Alaska I can see why...it is certainly a place for the hardy to live and master and especially historically. With the colonisation of local peoples by Russia in the 1800s, then later purchase of land by America, the native groups lost their sense of identity twice over. I came away from my trip with many musings, questions and a quest to learn more about Alaskan history. With so many different languages, Alaska Native groups and cultural practices within 600,000 people and spread over a state two-thirds the size of the rest of the USA, it is quite unfathomable that one education system will suffice for all...

The Russian Orthodox church stands high on the hill