Tuesday, September 04, 2007

Rocksploration

We're closing in on the real end of summer, but I've been out on several rock finding missions. And I found enough things to be excited about the arrival of the next climbing season (as if the end of winter won't be enough..)

Lise and I had a really nice overnight camping trip this last weekend - Labor Day weekend up here, and Father's Day weekend at home. Happy Father's Day Bob and Butch! Anyway, we camped out on top of Wickersham Dome about an hour north of town. The marmots left us alone overnight and we spent the day cleaning and climbing rocks (you know who) and sleeping in the sun.


Bouldering with Lise out on Wickersham Dome. Weathered granite ( I think?) blocks in a beautiful setting.


Arc de Trompe, at Narnia. No typo in the name, the idea for which came from a Pixies album; the climbing is super tricky. Easily the tallest, hardest lines found so far on Fairbanks limestone. The arch itself is about 20 ft high, the overlap roof is about 2 feet deep, and the tallest lines about 50 ft tall. Tom Ellis and I put in a couple of anchor bolts for the central lines and spent some time cleaning. But on top of the hilly 1 hr bushwhack, that left us too tired to send. Routes here will likely be (left to right) 5.9 / 5.11+ / 5.12+ / 5.12 / 5.11+/ 5.13+. There are a couple other big outcrops at Narnia, and they have much better rock quality and features than the main Grapefruit hill. Choice.



Mike Ruckhaus at the base of the 40+ ft overhanging arete/ groove we found behind Crackland. The rock was loose, needed a well-organized top rope anchor, but the climbing was really nice and sustained at about 5.10.

Hopefully one of two last burns for this season, but the schedule is looking pretty full with the marathon, Lisa's parents visiting and a workshop to attend. And, a climbing trip planned this weekend. ;-)

4 comments:

Anonymous said...

You can take your 5.9 / 5.11+ / 5.12+ / 5.12 / 5.11+/ 5.13+ Narnia, dust it off, turn it sideways...

Elvis still lives in Takaka.

danp said...

Blue suede shoes wouldn't help on the slopers at Narnia.

AlpineEssence said...

That looks great, I would love to head up there with you to Narnia!

danp said...

I am in New Zealand now, but have at it!

There is a bolted unsent line on the project wall -small crimpers and slippery feet at solid 5.12+
After several unsuccessful attempts, I wanted to call it "A line to wish for a wardrobe" . Teleportation would certainly beat the hike!

And another wall with TR bolts for a couple of lines.