McGinnis - First Alaskan Peak

A week before I turned the ripe old age of 31, I got down to the Alaska Range and climbed my first Alaskan Peak - the modest McGinnis Peak. The trip was run through the Alaska Alpine Club and led by my good mate Frank. When we left Fiarbanks at a lesurely 7am it was bloody cold (-30 C) but down past Delta Junction it was warmer and as clear a day as you could imagine. In fact we saw no trace of a cloud in two days. We skied in 7 miles (11 km) up a creek and Glacier for about 5 hours and set up camp at the base of the scenic Rainbow Ridge.

Frank, me and Tom from the Czech Republic took off and climbing McGinnis in the twilight - a two hour round trip up a ridge left of the big bowl in the picture below (that peak is not McGinnis). It was about 75 minutes up a reasonably steep ridge involving some steep sections of front pointing. It felt great but I was knackered after the ski in. Enthusiasm and thoughts of Lisa spewing on the coast to coast but keeping on keeping on, help me to the top. A modest achievement but a fantastic view and great feeling. We climbed back down first under moonlight and then with head lamps, carefully picking our way down some sections face into the slope.


The caffeinated power gels and suagry snacks that had fuelled the ascent kept me awake far too long through the night. After about 4 hours sleep I was up at 6:30am to cook breakfast, or at least to get cold fumbling around with brittle matches and lighters which were too cold to light. The whole group of 12 then climbed the same route. It was much easier the second time around, even after little sleep, partly because steps were cut into the steep sections, but also because it wasn't into the unknown and dark!

The ski out was bloody hairy - a big pack on and down crazy hard-packed and windblown sustrugi snow on the glacier. Looking back, one of the 2 big full face plants must have been when I sprung my ac shoulder joint. The creek section was smoother sailing though, and we were back at Delta having a beer and burger by about 6pm. A great trip, and hopefuly the first of many such missions. Big ups to Frank for lending me so much gear and for leading the trip.