Kenai Peninsula Trip

Our schedules finally lined up enough to enjoy a trip to the Alaskan riviera, just in time before it freezes over ;) We took a week off and travelled to Homer, at the base of the Kenai peninsula near Anchorage. It was really great to stop in Anchorage each way, and stay with our friends Jeremy and Laurelyn, and their two cute kids Brooks and Kai. After entertaining these two, we travelled through to Whittier - via the cool one way tunnel.

Kai and Brooks at home in Anchorage; Lisa in a cove out of Whitier; glacier on the Whitier side of the tunnel.

We then travelled throughand via the Sterling Highway down the center of the Kenai. This is a major 'combat fishing' zone: that's actaully the term used when these guys pack the banks of the Russian and Kenai Rivers to haul in the migrating Salmon. The bears then line up to haul in the fishermen! We spent a night at Ninikchik, with its cute old village harking back to the days of Russian settlement and control of Alaska. The tides were super-low, and the clammers out digging up their quarry the next morning.

Lisa expressing herself Japanese styles on Bishop Beach, Homer; Redoubt Volcano from Ninilchik; Grewingk Glacier, Kachemak Bay N.P.; unidentified Alaskan wildflower, Grewingk beach.

Then on to Homer, a quaint fishing/tourism town famous for the halibut - delicious deep sea flounder-like fish that can grow to more than 150 kg - fished out of the surrounding Kachemak Bay. We skipped the chartered fishing, and took a 24 hour kayak rental in Kachemak Bay National Park, a 30 minute water taxi ride across the bay.

And what a great 24 hours, thanks to meeting some super friendly locals camping on the same beach that we were dropped at. Lee had biked around NZ in the late 70's, and his daughter Chrissy had also been out to visit an aunt living in Milton. Lise and I met up with them after first getting in the short hike up to the very picturesque Grewingk Glacier Lake.

Paddling in Halibut Cove; black bear yearlings; with (L to R) Geneva, Vicky, Lee, Chrissie at 'The Saltry'; low tide in Halibut Cove.

The 8+ metre tides added an extra dimension to the paddling. We rode a white water 'river' into Halibut Lagoon: the narrow channel into this wide lagoon has quite a flow at mid-tide. After a little exploration, we found the others at the main dock, hanging out and waiting for the tide to turn and make leaving the lagoon possible. On the paddle out we saw porpoises and an otter, and were convinved to follow the others to a restaurant in nearby Halibut Cove. Lee, the local book shop owner, proved a great tour guide and filled us in on the local geology and birdlife. W even spotted two black bear yearlings, and paddled to within about 30 metres of them - very cool! The Saltry was a fabulous restaurant - beautifully situated and decorated - and it was really nice to share a delicious meal with great company. The kayak portage and paddle home back to the campsite burned off at least the dessert and beer!

It poured overnight, and we spent the last day drying out, having a diner brunch, visiting Lee's bookstore, and driving back to Anchorage. Saturday morning, Jeremy flew out for more fieldwork, and the rest of us checked out some running salmon. During the long haul back to Fairbanks, I could almost feel the land wrapping in behind us as we drove further into the interior. No doubt, it was great to have been back by the sea, and to have had a relaxing break exploring the 'tourist' Alaska. But the trip was really made by all the friendly, relaxed, generous people we met the whole way - catching up with friends, and making new ones.